In August of this year there was a Vogue服饰与美容 story by photographer Hedi Slimane that solely featured Karmen Pedaru (Ford). Such is Slimane’s acute mastery of lighting in all its nuance and complexity that the editorial stood out like a Caravaggio amongst a hall of Florentine Mannersists. The Estonian model was equal to the master’s lens in every respect, exuding a certain radiance rarely associated with anything other than the finest glazed porcelain. At the time of its publication, the story flashed like a lightning strike, a trick of fashion not to be repeated. However, fast forward to the closing days of the year and this dynamic photographer-model pair have reunited for a 23rd hour editorial flourish that plays out in the pages of Vogue Paris décembre 2011 – janvier 2012.
Titled “Last Night,” the story, like its Chinese Vogue predecessor, benefits richly from styling by Melanie Ward. The story opens with Karmen, bathed in cool light projected through a diagonal lattice, wearing a black silk combi-pantalon embroidered with sequins by Emporio Armani, cinched by an “Obsedia” leather belt with a sparkling silver closure by Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, a diamond choker by Fred Leighton, and bracelets in pink gold and yellow gold with diamonds by Pomellato and David Yurman respectively. The ratio of brightness and shadow is adjusted for each of the story’s frames and at moments ever dramatically so that the portrait registers only the faintest of light. For example, Karmen’s third look, a long cape in wool jersey and silk with a braided cord woven in gold silk by Azzaro, leather jacket by Joseph, high-waisted leather pants with a leather belt with golden chevrons by Balmain, and ring in pink gold by Pomellato, only just simmers forth from the inky background, threatening at every angle to crash back into oblivion. Slimane’s carefully orchestrated dance of light and shadow continues throughout the rest of the story and serves as a testament not only to his photographic nous, but also the modeling acumen of Karmen Pedaru.
Credits include: Publication, Vogue Paris N°923 décembre 2011- janvier 2012; Title, “Last Night”; Photography, Hedi Slimane; Fashion, Melanie Ward; Hair, Didier Malige for Frederic Fekkaï; Makeup, Linda Cantello for Giorgio Armani; Manicure, Alicia Torello; Production, Kim Pollock; Fashion assistance, Courtney Kryston; Image source, FrankUpdates.







